Test Preparation: Natural Ability
The Natural Ability Test measures seven hereditary characteristics that are fundamental to a good, reliable versatile hunting dog. A dog’s inherited abilities usually manifest at an early age, and the Natural Ability Test takes advantage of this fact by evaluating dogs when they are quite young.
If you are just learning about this test, NAVHDA’s “Inside Look” video is a good place to start:
The test evaluates inherited ability but owners and handlers should not kid themselves that the pup will stand or fall on “doing what comes naturally” and preparation is therefore not necessary. This attitude would be lazy, and unfair to the pup.
At a very minimum, a pup should be exposed to swimming, game in the field, tracking, and gunfire before a Natural Ability Test. With that in mind, the following “sequences” are a proven framework for preparing a young dog to let its natural abilities shine.
Water Sequences
Basic rule: don't jump ahead — never ask pup to enter the water for a retrieve until he or she can swim, and never pressure a young or fearful pup beyond its comfort zone. Some dogs take to the water naturally, some need to be brought along methodically. Like gunfire, a poor water introduction with an uncertain pup can take years to overcome. This is a matter worth doing deliberately.
Take pup into water using a lead. Be supportive and make it fun.
Have pup play with a live bird while pup and handler are both in the water.
Use a tethered bird (live duck or pigeon) to entice pup into the water while handler remains on shore.
From shore, make a splash with a rock to alert pup; throw live bird to same location when pup notices rock splash.
When pup begins to enter the water at rock’s splash, throw a bird over pup’s head and beyond the splash.
Repeat (5) but with a dummy with bird wings attached to it.
Repeat (5) but with a scented canvas dummy.
Repeat (5) but with a plastic dummy.
Search Sequences
Basic rule: always build prey drive and relative independence in search before trying to shape or build the pointing instinct. Attempting to pressure an uncertain or careful young dog into a search is a recipe for handler-frustration; shaping and guiding a driven dog toward pointing is a recipe for intensity and staunchness.
Plant live quail or crop-wing pigeons in a launcher. Let pup find launcher and catch the birds.
Pup’s feeling of “success,” from having a bird in his or her mouth, will build prey drive.
Plant birds in obvious objectives — clumps of grass, sagebrush, etc. — in a large area and let pup figure out that finding and searching cover will be rewarded by producing birds.
Begin changing directions and using e-collar (low nick or tone) help pup stay attentive to your direction changes.
As search develops, use the principle of intermittent reinforcement to increase pup’s drive to search: not every search need produce a bird, but the harder the search the more likely pup will find success.
Natural Pointing Sequences
Basic rules: after prey drive is established solidly, never allow pup to catch a bird in training. Encourage pup to understand that flushing and chasing birds is less fun than holding them to the ground, by pointing.
Flight homers in front of pup and use the nick button on an e-collar to deter chasing.
With each flight, increase the level of stimulation until pup stops moving at first visual sighting of bird.
When dog understands (2), pop homers from a launcher while pup is upwind (i.e., can’t scent the bird) and use the e-collar to deter chasing.
When dog understands (3), place bird in launcher and bring pup downwind, across the scent cone — pop bird the moment pup makes the scent and use e-collar to deter chasing.
Place bird in launcher and give pup an opportunity to point it. Launch bird at first sign of creeping or moving.
Reward pup for standing still on point — style pup up, praise pup, etc.
Trained Pointing Sequences
Basic rule: “trained pointing” is not intended to be a crutch or a mask for a weak point — instead, think of trained pointing as bridge to natural pointing. Done correctly, it will help stop creeping or charging in to flush, thereby setting the stage for success with the basic rule in “Natural Pointing,” above.
Teach “whoa” while pup is standing, as a command to “stay.”
When pup understands (1), teach “whoa” while pup is moving, as a command to “stop and stay.”
When pup understands that “whoa” means “stop and stay,” plant a bird and bring pup — on a check cord — into the scent cone on the downwind side. The moment pup scents bird, use “whoa” and check cord to restrain pup from creeping or closing on the bird. Reward pup for standing still on point — style pup up, praise, etc.
When pup reliably stops upon making scent of bird, begin flushing planted birds the moment pup begins to break or creep. Kill birds only following a good performance by pup.
Tracking Sequence
Basic rules: always leave a feather pile at the start of a track, never allow pup to track while not on a check cord, always walk downwind of the track, and never allow pup to catch tracked birds — insist he or she point the find. Finally, always allow pup to calm before the release and always release pup by the collar (not from the lead).
Walk, dragging a wet duck on a short string or rope. Walk cross-wind for 50 yards, place a pigeon in a launcher, and return (carrying the duck) by the same route.
Begin pup on the track, on a check-cord, allowing him or her to move forward when on the track. Keep pup on check cord and ask pup to point the pigeon.
Repeat (1) and (2) but replace the duck and pigeon with a single live pheasant. Keep pup on check cord and ask pup to point the pheasant.
Repeat (3) until pup understands how to track.